Shoe & Boot Making Techniques |
VOL 7 Making a 19th Century Peg Shoe Peter Oakley 70 mins. |
A hands on, how to, workshop (practically a seminar) on making this style of shoe so popular in the 1800s. Using shoes in various stages of completion, Peter shows the way, from attaching the insole to the last through burnishing and finishing the bottom. He uses and discusses the tools, the thread, the materials and, of course, the pegs. Depending on how much knowledge you bring to this video, you could conceivabley make you own peg shoes after watching it. A must have for the craftsman’s video library. |
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VOL 10 Double Channel English-Style Top Boots Kenneth Treese 49 mins. 18th c. Footwear, Shoemaking Tools, & Devices Al Saguto 35 mins. Cordwainer's Shoe Collection Al Saguto 24 mins. |
1) Ken discusses the construction of a pair of reproduction
top boots that he's made, from patterning to polishing. 2) Al presents slides highlighting and describing the various tools and devices gathered from Colonial Williamsburg's, private and international collections. The slides will photo-illustrate his forthcoming book, The Art of the Cordwainer by M. DeGarsault.
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Vol 14 Crimping the Full Wellington Boot D. W. Frommer 60 mins. |
In this amazing presentation, D. W. performs a step-by-step demonstration of how he crimps a full (one piece front) Wellington boot by hand, doing the seemingly impossible with just wet leather, crimping boards, clamps, a hammer, tacks, and a few hand tools. |
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VOL 15 The Smallest Shoes from the Museums of Europe Alzbeta Kolcunova 38 mins. Waxed Ends D. W. Frommer 12 mins. |
1) Alzbeta presents a university paper delivered in the Czech Republic that examines children’s shoes from the Medieval period through the 20th century. She Includes an interesting formula for calculating the height of the children that wore those shoes. 2) Using inexpensive nylon line for a bristle and dacron polyester thread, D. W. presents an amazing hands-on demonstration using these unusual items to perform the same functions as an expensive hog’s bristle and linen thread. |
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VOL 17 Making Classic 60s Style Sandals, John Bailey 60 mins. |
John learned the trade in 1970s Boston, when there was literally a sandal maker on every street corner of all the major cities. In this presentation he designs and completes, step by step, a molded sole, Rilleau sling sandal, one of the most popular styles of the era. He includes a generous sprinkling of anecdotes from those glorious days of the beatnik/hippie sandal makers. |
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Vol 18 Boot Inseamng Jake Dobbins 54 mins. |
Arkansas Boot Maker, Jake, learned the trade from D. W. Frommer. In this presentation he demonstrates the art of inseaming the welt of a western boot as taught by D. W. |
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VOL 24 Hand Sewing an Outsole Jake Dobbins 60 mins. |
Jake demonstrates the art of hand sewing an outsole, virtually duplicating the work of a curved needle stitcher. He discusses cutting the groove in the sole, punching the holes through the welt and sole, and finally, attaching the bristle to the thread and sewing with it. |
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VOL 26 Making an Awl Blade Dick Anderson 60 mins. |
Dick demonstrates the art of creating a curved awl blade from cutting a length of raw steel through the finishing, polishing and attachment of the handle. All of Dicks tools, works of art, are coveted by working cordwainers. |
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VOL 27 Archaeological Shoes from the CW and Old Philadelphia Collections Val Povinelli 45 mins. Hoisting Dan Freeman 45 mins. |
1) Val presents the paper he is working on as his Journeyman project for Colonial Williamsburg. The detailed report includes the percentage of the shoes that were stitched, pegged, etc. down to counting the stitches per inch attained by those Colonial shoemakers. 2) Dan demonstrates his technique of lasting using the hoisting method by actually lasting a pump and a boot |
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VOL 29 Hand Sharpening Tools Dick Anderson 16 mins. Bootmaking as a business Lisa Sorrell 39 mins. |
1) Dick demonstrates his techniques for sharpening his tools. 2) Lisa is a custom bootmaker from Guthrie, Oklahoma. She opened her successful boot shop in 1966. She recently won the Master Bootmaker Division at the Boot and Saddlemakers roundup in Wichita Falls. In this video, she discusses the challenges of developing a successful business building boots |
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VOL 30 Use of Adhesives David Ulan 55 mins. |
David is a certified pedorthist and a footwear instructor at Fashion Institute of Technology. He owns and operates The Cobbler & Cordwainer, LTD, established in 1977. His extensive resoling experience has caused David to work with and understand varied cement processes. In this presentation, he shares his knowledge of these techniques. |
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VOL 31 Lasting a One-Piece Upper Dan Freeman 8 mins. Creating a Meanform by Rubber Cementing Canvas to a Last Sharlot Battin 25 mins. |
1) Dan discusses his technique for lasting a shoe with a one-piece upper. 2) Sharlot is a theatrical footwear shoemaker and teacher. She has been teaching classes at F.I.T. for over twenty years and has developed most of the footwear courses for the Accessories Design Department. In this video She demonstrates her unique method for creating a meanform with rubber cement and canvas. |
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VOL 35 Sneaky Tricks for Women's Shoes Georgene McKim 50 mins. Knife and Awl Sharpening Dick Anderson 12 mins English Shoemakers Zoé Rios 5 mins. |
1) Georgene, a shoemaker specializing in women's shoes and boots, discusses tricks she has learned for creating her popular products. 2) Dick, a maker of fine hand tools from wisconsin, demonstrates addtional techniques for tool sharpening and discusses with the cordwainers their specific needs. 3) Zoe grew up near Windsor, England and studied fashion design in London. After moving to Central Texas, she began learning the art of traditional leatherwork from the master craftsmen at Uptmore Saddlery. Today, she is one of a small number of bespoke shoemakers, creating top-quality, handmade shoes and handbags. In this presentation she discusses her experiences on a study trip to her mother country, England, where she met with and interviewed shoemakers. |
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VOL 36 Thread Preparation for Boot & Shoemaking Nasser Vies 25 mins. Inlay Techniques Lisa Sorrell 24 mins. Pull-up holes for Boots D. W. Frommer 27 mins. |
1) Nasser demonstrates his techniques for waxing and twisting strands of thread to make various weights of thread for stitching shoes and boots. 2) Lisa, a custom bootmaker from Guthrie, Oklahoma, demonstrates her boot inlaying methods by creating an inlaid bookmark. 3) D. W. displays and discusses the tool he uses and shows us how he builds pull-up holes for his boots. |
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VOL 37 Pegging 101 Peter Oakley 66 mins. |
Peter demonstrates his techniques and tricks for making a pegged shoe. Similar to his demonstration in Vol VII, Peter includes some new methods for this 19th century technique of shoemaking. |
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Vol 39 Taping a Last to obtain a Mean Form & Making Hand Wax Nasser Vies 20 mins. Patternmaking Tricks and Ideas Dan Freeman 17 mins. Where's My Hammer? Marc Carlson 21 mins. Brains to Boots Lynn Mcnabb. 30 mins. |
1) Nasser demonstrates how he tapes a last to extract its form. He also shows us how he makes hand sewing wax using pine pitch and cooking oil. 2) Dan digs into his trick bag and gives us some new ideas for patternmaking. 3) Marc discovered, while digging through old manuscripts and illustrations of shoemakers at work, that there were no hammers mentioned or shown. In this presentation, he probes the reasons for this oddity with the use of power point slides 4) Lynn is a custom bootmaker in Ontario and has been having difficulty finding satisfactory leather for her trade so she began tanning her own hides. In this practical demonstration, she actually tans the hide of a raccoon that she found as road kill near the sight of the hcc's annual meeting, using the animal's brains as the tanning material. |
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Vol 45 The Private Life of Shoes, showcasing shoes throughout history and the modern day, from around the world, epitomizing creativity and design. Edward Maeder The Evolution of Design: Leather Inlay and Overlay, demonstrating the development and variability of artistic design in elegant cowboy boots for women and men. Lisa Sorell |
1) Edward is the Costume & Textile Consultant, and former Curator of
Costumes and Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, founding
director of the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto. 2) Lisa is an Artist & Bootmaker, as well as an HCC Board Member. In this presentation, she demonstrates the development and variability of artistic design in elegant cowboy boots for women an men. |
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Vol 47 Sculpting Platform Soles Daphne Board 13 mins. Jack-boots Val Povinelli 30 mins. |
1) Daphne Board discusses her technique for Sculpting
Platform Soles: Aesthetics and Biomechanics, creating fashion-forward
shoes that are both wearable and beautiful. 2)Val is a Journeyman Shoemaker, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation – Jack-boots Once the Property of Thomas Lord Fairfax – Research into and Recreation of his Boots, for the first time in nearly 200 years recreating the process of making a jack-boot (with great fire pictures). |
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Vol 50 St. Crispin's Lance Brett Walker 30 mins Rick Roman How to Build a Fume Hood on a Budget 24 mins. Al Saguto Interesting Tools from the Mercer's Tool Collection 10 mins |
1) Brett is an Independent Scholar, Journeyman Shoemaker. “St.
Crispin's Lance with Braddock & Forbes: British shoes, shoemaking, and
shoe-repairing on two campaigns against Duquesne.” Combining
documentation about logistical difficulties of supplying the campaigns,
with the archaeological data derived from the Fort Ligonier
collection—the largest collection of mid-18th century British military
footwear. 2)Rick, proprietor of Romango Handmade Shoes, presents plans for building a safe and effective fume hood complete with detailed drawings and materials. In addition he reviews common solvents encountered in shoemaking and their relative hazards. 3)The Mercer Museum, Doylestown, PA, where the meeting was held, has one of the finest collections of shoemaking tools in the United States. Al selected several of the most interesting and unique tools and discusses them with the cordwainers. |