The History and Archaeology of Shoemaking |
VOL 1 Historic Shoemaking June Swann 58 mins |
June is the former Keeper of the Shoe Collection for Northampton Central Museum, Northampton, England. In this presentation, she uses her collection of colored slides as she traces the history of shoemaking from Ancient Rome through the development of the modern factory. She details the way hand cutting and stitching evolved into modern shoemaking machinery. |
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VOL 2 Military Shoes 1911-1915 Capt. Peterkin 34 mins Modern Manufacture Larry Waller 35 mins |
1) The late Capt. Peterkin discusses the shoes and boots worn by sailors and soldiers around the world during this volatile period for military footwear. He outlines an era that began with soldiers wearing shoes that were so uncomfortable it cost them their battles, and ended with the development of the Munson Last, the foundation for "the best shoe ever furnished American trooops." 2)The development of Larry's shop, the Walrus Shoe Factory where he makes period shoes for re-enactors and museum living history personnel such as at Colonial Williamsburg and Old Sturbridge Village. |
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VOL 3 Anatomy of Archaeological Shoes Al Saguto 66 mins. |
With transparencies, showing technical drawings of actual shoes from the 17th, 18th, & 19th centuries, Al discusses shoe archaeology. The drawings illustrate disassembled shoes and show how they were constructed and repaired. Following the transparencies, Al and Dean Nelson show and discuss Dean's fabulous collection of recovered footwear from the same centuries |
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VOL 5 US Army Bootee 1861-1865 Capt. Peterkin 37 mins. Shoemakers at Work 1474 - 1877 Al Saguto 40 mins. |
1) Using transparencies, the late Capt. Peterkin traces the evolution of the Army Bootee from the development of the Jefferson Boot through the Blucher shoes worn by soldiers and cavalry of the Civil War. He discusses manufacturers, inspection marks, and the actual construction of the Bootee.
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VOL 6 Shoemaking By The Book Al Saguto 38 Mins. Hessian, Hussar, Hungarian Boots June Swann 33 mins. Leather and Tanning Museums of France Rene Hackstetter 19 mins. |
1) Using transparencies, Al examines shoemaking manuals from Medieval times through the 18th century. A time when shoemakers made wonderful shoes without the help of sewing machines and modern adhesives. How did they do it? What kinds of tools and materials did they use? What were the names of their tools? Al answers these questions with pictures of actual pages from the books used by those shoemakers.
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Vol 8 Shoes from Columbus to the Present June Swann 45 mins. The Shoemaking Industry in Early 19th Century Massachusetts Peter Oakley 25 mins. A Look lat Two 18th Century Shoemakers Paul Lurk 20 mins. |
1)Using her personal collection of beautiful slides, June discusses
American shoes and shoemaking from Primitive Native American footwear
through the latest styles. 2) Peter Oakley presents an intriguing insight into this era of flourishing American shoe production with the aid of factory production figures, numbers of employees, excerpts from account books, and the actual diary of a shoemaker.
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VOL 9 Shoemaking From Historical Sources: Preserving a Process as an Artifact Al Saguto 45 mins. Shoe Shop at Plimouth Plantation Rusty Moore 5 mins. Military Acouterments of the 40th Regiment of Grenadiers Tim Wilson 30 mins. |
1) Working with his personal collection of slides and equipped with his background of years of work in Colonial Williamsburg's shoe shop, Al examines the philosophy of historical shoemaking in a museum environment.
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VOL 10 18th c. Footwear, Shoemaking Tools, & Devices Al Saguto 35 mins. Cordwainer's Shoe Collection Al Saguto 24 mins. Double Channel English-Style Top Boots Kenneth Treese 49 mins. |
2) Al Saguto examines each pair of historical shoes in the Cordwainers’ Shoe Collection in chronological order, from the late 1770s through to the early 20th century. He displays and describes the details and construction technique of each piece. 3) Kenneth discusses the construction of a pair of reproduction top boots from patterning to polishing. |
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VOL 11 18th Century Apprenticeship Harrold Gill 25 mins. Reproducing 18th Century Shoemaking Tools Peter Ross 56 mins. Shoemakers of New Hampshire Bruce Graham 26 mins. William Asadorian Archaeological Footwear Collection Al Saguto 17 mins. |
1) Gill, Historian (ret.), Historic Trades Department, Colonial Williamsburg, 1961-1991, discusses his research on apprenticeship for 18th century trades. He covers apprenticeship indentures, education, and orphans, focusing on shoemakers and his book, Apprentices of Virginia, 1623-1800.
3) Bruce, historian/Cordwainer, New Hampshire. Using an old
diary (1882) of his wife’s grandparents, who were part time shoemakers
and part time farmers, Bruce discusses the history of shoemaking in New
Hampshire. They “made shoes on the kitchen table“ and forwarded them to
large manufacturers in his state. |
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VOL 13 This Old Shoe Donna Albergotti 22 mins. So You Want to make shoes for a living Bruce Graham 38 mins. Living History, Hand Shoemaking in Ecuador Dan Freeman 15 mins. |
1) Following a spirited how-to orientation, Donna, separates the cordwainers into work groups for a hands-on workshop. Using paper, pencils and white cotton gloves, they examine identify and draw various mid to late 18th c. Shoes and fragments. 2) A discussion of the technical research and development Bruce has gone through to develop and market an affordable, hand made shoe.
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VOL 15 The Smallest Shoes from the Museums of Europe Alzbeta Kolcunova 38 mins. Waxed Ends D. W. Frommer 12 mins. |
1) A university paper delivered in the Czech Republic that examines children’s shoes from the Medieval period through the 20th century. Alzbeta includes an interesting formula for calculating the height of the children that wore those shoes. 2) Using inexpensive nylon line for a bristle and dacron polyester thread, D. W. presents an amazing hands-on demonstration using these unusual items to perform the same functions as an expensive hog’s bristle and linen thread. |
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VOL 21 Digging Old Shoes Al Saguto 37 mins. Handmade Books Bruce Graham 23 mina. |
1)Using slides, Al examines the treasure trove of 18th century shoes as recovered from burial or under water, from sewers, wells or sunken ships.
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VOL 25 Mediaeval Shoes Marc Carlson 60 mins. |
Marc’s interests lie in how mediaeval shoes were made. In this presentation, he discusses several methods that he believes those ancient shoemakers used during this dark time period. |
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VOL 27 Archaeological Shoes from the CW and Old Philadelphia Collections Val Povinelli 45 mins. Hoisting Dan Freeman 45 mins. |
1) Val presents the paper he is working on as his Journeyman project for Colonial Williamsburg. The detailed report includes the percentage of the shoes that were stitched, pegged, etc. down to counting the stitches per inch attained by those Colonial shoemakers. 2) Dan demonstrates the technique of lasting using the hoisting method by actually lasting a pump and a boot |
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VOL 28 Walking in Big Ben's Shoes Paul Lurk 46 mins. Custom Lastmaking Glen Leasure 45 mins. |
1) Paul reproduced a mid-19th Century Slave’s Shoes Big Ben, a slave, was a huge man with extremely large feet. Paul tells Ben's story and examines one of Ben’s large shoes from a museum, then sets about creating a last for the shoe. 2) The STS Sock Method for making lasts. Using a fellow Cordwainer’s foot as a model, Glen demonstrates his techniques for creating a custom plaster last by taking a mold of the foot. |
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VOL 34 Concealed Shoes in Massachusetts Bruce Graham 23 mins. The HCC Library Marc Carlson 36 mins. |
1) Bruce discusses shoes and other artifacts concealed in the walls of New England homes. He shows many of the old shoes using a power point slide show produced by Bruce and his wife, Penny. 2) Marc, the HCC Librarian, discusses the library collection and questions how to proceed with growing number of volumes. |
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VOL 39 Whare's My Hammer Marc Carlson 21 mins Taping a Last to Obtain a Mean Form & Making Hand Wax Nasser Vies 20 mins. Patternmaking Tricks and Ideas Dan Freeman 17 mins. |
1) Marc discovered, while digging through old manuscripts and illustrations of shoemakers at work, that there were no hammers mentioned or shown. In this presentation, he probes the reasons for this oddity with the use of power point slides. 2) Nasser demonstrates how he tapes a last to extract its form. He also shows us how he makes hand sewing wax using pine pitch and cooking oil. 3) Dan digs into his trick bag and gives us some new ideas for patternmaking. |
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VOL 40 Emboidered Shoes 1790-1950 Edward F. Maeder 40 mins. Custom Shoemaking Tips & Techniques Dan Freeman 4 mins. |
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VOL 41 Teaching at Penland Crafts School Lisa Sorrell 31 mins. The Life of Samuel Lane 1718-1806 Brett Walker 30 mins. |
1) Lisa, a custom bootmaker from Guthrie, Oklahoma, set up a
course teaching leather art at Penland and, along with power point
slides, discusses steps she took to create the course and problems she
encountered and solved. 2) Brett, a journeyman shoemaker at Colonial Williamsburgh, discusses Samuel Lane who kept a detailed journal of his day-to-day life as a New Hampshire shoemaker in the 18th Century. The New Hampshire Historical Society published a book of his writings. Brett discusses Samuel’s life with power point slides, as detailed in this book. |
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Vol 42 Starting a Shoe Program at Fort Ticonderoga Joel Anderson 32 mins. The History of Peg Making Paul Soares 33 mins. |
1) Joel led the development of the fort’s historic trade program in 2012
including shoemaking and military tailoring. His presentation describes
how Fort Ticonderoga conducted the research, sourced materials, and
trained personnel for their newly established shoemaking program. 2) Paul owns Kearsarge Peg Company, located in Bartlett, NH that has been in continuous operation for 121 years. The original hardwood shoe pegs are still manufactured in the facility. Paul gives a tour of the history of the peg-making trade through a look at the history of Kearsarge. |
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VOL 44 An Intimate Study of 17th Century Footwear in the Rijksmuseums' Paintin Collection Edward Maeder 37 mins. Examining Lincoln's Boots Michaelo A. Carnacchi 40 mins. The Effects the hcc has had onthe Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) Kathleen Grevers 20 mins. Making Orthotic Shoes Fit Mind and Foot Carina Eneroth 25 mins. |
1) Edward, is a former Curator of Costumes and Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and founding director of the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto. In this presentation he analyzes the footwear worn by the subjects in the 17th century paintings in the Rijksmuseum's collection in Amsterdam, Netherlands. 2) Michael, a bootmaker in Sebastopol, California, received a commission from the Ford Theater and the National Park Service to recreate the boots that Lincoln was wearing when he was assasinated. In this presentation, he details the commission, from actually handling Lincoln's boots through his completion of the recreation. 3) Kathleen, Senior Critic, Apparel Design, RISD, has a colleague who attended the preceding year's AGM and brought ideas that she had learned back to the school. Kathleen discusses the impact that has had on the school's curriculum and especially to Italian shoe design. 4) Carina, master shoemaker in Sweden and Official Shoemaker to the Swedish Royal Family, discusses techniques that she uses to create orthotic shoes that are both attractive and orthotically correct. |
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Vol 45 The Private Life of Shoes, showcasing shoes throughout history and the modern day, from around the world, epitomizing creativity and design. Edward Maeder The Evolution of Design: Leather Inlay and Overlay, demonstrating the development and variability of artistic design in elegant cowboy boots for women and men. Lisa Sorell |
1) Edward is the Costume & Textile Consultant, and former
Curator of Costumes and Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of
Art, founding director of the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto. 2) Lisa is an Artist & Bootmaker, as well as an HCC Board Member. |
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Vol 46 Shoemaking through the Ages, June Swann. Read by Al Saguto The Renaissance of Handmade – Exploring the future scenarios of our craft, our advantages vs. the factory work, what is our role in this age to preserve the craft Marcell Mrsan |
1) June Swann M.B.E., Assistant and then Keeper of the Boot and
Shoe Collection, Northampton Museum (England) 1950-1988. With her
slides, Al reads June's paper, History of Shoes and Shoemaking – Shoemaking through the
Ages, which examines the history of the trade from ancient
Greece through the rise of the industrial West, to the modern day. 2) Marcell Mrsan, Accredited Master Shoemaker, owner and maker of Koronya Handmade Shoes and Boots, Professor at SCAD. Enjoining shoemakers to celebrate a tradition of excellence and unite in preserving their skills and heritage. |
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Vol 47 Sculpting Platform Soles Daphne Board 13 mins. Jack-boots Val Povinelli 30 mins. |
1) Daphne discusses her technique for Sculpting Platform
Soles: Aesthetics and Biomechanics, creating fashion-forward shoes that
are both wearable and beautiful. 2)Val is a Journeyman Shoemaker, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, presents a look at Jack-boots that were once the property of Thomas Lord Fairfax – Research into and Recreation of his Boots, for the first time in nearly 200 years recreating the process of making a jack-boot (with great fire pictures). |
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Vol 49 Kathleen Grevers Design Delusions; Grey Matter Shoes 33 mins Kimberly Alexander Coveting Calamancos: From London to Lynn 33 mins |
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Kathleen is the Senior Critic, Apparel Design, Rhode Island School of
Design
“Design Delusions; Grey Matter Shoes”
This presentation highlights the intelligence of shoe design
and how academia pushes critical collaboration and cross disciplines to
derive a more ecological and sustainable approach to footwear. 2) Kimberly Alexander, Ph.D., University of New Hampshire. A presentation discussing the author’s book “Georgian Shoes, Stories from Early America" Johns Hopkins University Press. |
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Vol 50 St. Crispin's Lance Brett Walker 30 mins Rick Roman How to Build a Fume Hood on a Budget 24 mins. Al Saguto Interesting Tools from the Mercer's Tool Collection 10 mins |
1) Brett is an Independent Scholar, Journeyman Shoemaker. “St.
Crispin's Lance with Braddock & Forbes: British shoes, shoemaking, and
shoe-repairing on two campaigns against Duquesne.” Combining
documentation about logistical difficulties of supplying the campaigns,
with the archaeological data derived from the Fort Ligonier
collection—the largest collection of mid-18thc British military
footwear. 2)Rick, proprietor of Romango Handmade Shoes, presents his plans for building a safe and effective fume hood complete with detailed drawings and materials. In addition he reviews common solvents encountered in shoemaking and their relative hazards. 3)The Mercer Museum, Doylestown, PA, where the meeting was held, has one of the finest collections of shoemaking tools in the United States. Al selected several of the most interesting and unique tools and discusses them with the cordwainers. |
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51 Shaun Pekar Another Man's Treasure, Eastfield Village and The Shoemaking Collection of Don Carpentier 42 mins. Terry Burress The Slashed Shoe 50 mins. |
Shaun is an
Independent Historic Shoemaker. From its inception in 1971, Historic
Eastfield Village grew to become the dream-realized of Don
Carpentier, a self-taught renaissance man interested in historic
preservation and historic trades. Carpentier would amass over the course
of his life a collection of 30 historic structures (dating from the
1790’s to the 1850’s) as well as enough tools and antiques to fill most
of those buildings to the rafters. Its only in the years subsequent to
his passing in 2014 that an effort to catalog his collections has begun,
and thus the true depth of his collections fully realized. Terry presents The Slashed Shoe, a Comparison of 20th Century Long (tall) Work Boot) Patterns – Part Deux: Back Seamed Patterns. He Examines more than a dozen historical and contemporary publications on boot patterns, including: Pattern Cutting Made Easy - Brophy, Thomas J. Jun. (1889); Boot and Shoe Pattern Cutting and Clicking - Hasluck, Paul N.; Editor (1906); Introduction to The Theory and Practice of Boot and Shoe Manufacture - Plucknett, Frank (1922); Boot and Shoe Design and Manufacture - Swaysland, Edward J. C. (1926); Boots and Shoes, Their Making Manufacturing and Selling - Golding, F. Y.; Editor (1934); Boot and Shoe Maker - Bordoli, Ernest; General Editor (1936, first printing 1935); Textbook of Footwear Manufacture - Thornton, J. H.; Editor (1964, first printing 1953); and other works. |
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52 Bruce Graham When Progress is a Step Backward 38 mins. Edward Maeder A Walk through the World of Shoes: From Davy Crocket to Randy Athletes 44 mins. |
1) Bruce is the owner of
Gossville Shoes. His presentation, Modern to Historical: When Progress
is a Step Backward is the story of his journey, from his
start in the trade making modern shoes, to his progression/regression to
making reenactor footwear. He discusses techniques, decisions, and
rationale. 2) Edward is a Costume & Textile Consultant. He is the former Curator of Costumes and Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and the founding director of the Bata Shoe Museum. He postulates that we all have a lifelong and intimate relationship with our shoes. This presentation is about his personal journey, an unexpected path that included everything from Post-Toasties moccasins to the world of Ferragamo and then on to trademark litigation. From Los Angeles to Europe and beyond. He shares some of these shoe stories along with revealing images. |
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54 Edward Maeder ERSATZ: German-English-French- Substitute Materials Used for Shoes 28 mins. John Welch The service they could render would be momentary: French Contract Shoes of the American Revolution 36 mins. |
1) Edward is a Costume &
Textile Consultant. He is the former Curator of Costumes and
Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and founding director
of the Bata Shoe Museum. His presentation, His presentation Begins with
his chance discovery of a man’s two-piece suit made of twisted/woven
paper in the collection of the Hood Museum at Dartmouth College in New
Hampshire, and the accompanying boots made of the same material, opened
a world of woven paper clothing. This was an important part of domestic
production during the First World War, particularly in Germany where
between 1914-1919, more than 200,000 people were employed in this
industry. This presentation concentrates on the footwear that, by
necessity, was made of paper during and after both World Wars, primarily
in Europe: Germany, Austria and Finland. 2) John is an Apprentice Shoemaker, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation. His presentation discusses the fact that while the weapons and uniforms supplied by France to the fledgling United States during the American War for Independence have been well studied, little attention has been given to the shoes that were included in these contracts. Drawing on Primary sources and a unique collection of surviving originals, apprentice shoemaker John explores this aspect of the struggle to provide the Continental Army with footwear and the shoes that of necessity were taken into service. |