Home Logo Shoemaker
  The History and Archaeology of Shoemaking  

VOL 1
Historic Shoemaking June Swann
58 mins

June  is the former Keeper of the Shoe Collection for Northampton Central Museum, Northampton, England. In this presentation, she uses her  collection of colored slides as she traces the history of shoemaking from Ancient Rome through the development of the modern factory. She details the way hand cutting and stitching evolved into modern shoemaking machinery.

Media
 
VOL 2
Military Shoes
1911-1915
Capt. Peterkin
34 mins

Modern
Manufacture
Larry Waller
35 mins

1) The late Capt. Peterkin discusses the shoes and boots worn by sailors and soldiers around the world during this volatile period for military footwear. He outlines an era that began with soldiers wearing shoes that were so uncomfortable it cost them their battles, and ended with the development of the Munson Last, the foundation for "the best shoe ever furnished American trooops."

2)The development of Larry's shop, the Walrus Shoe Factory where he makes period shoes for re-enactors and museum living history personnel such as at Colonial Williamsburg and Old Sturbridge Village.
Media
 
VOL 3
Anatomy of
Archaeological Shoes
Al Saguto
66 mins.

 With transparencies, showing technical drawings of actual shoes from the 17th, 18th, & 19th centuries, Al discusses shoe archaeology. The drawings illustrate disassembled shoes and show how they were constructed and repaired. Following the transparencies, Al and Dean Nelson show and discuss Dean's fabulous collection of recovered footwear from the same centuries

Media
 
VOL 5
US Army Bootee
1861-1865
Capt. Peterkin
37 mins.

Shoemakers at Work
1474 - 1877
Al Saguto
40 mins.

1)  Using transparencies, the late Capt. Peterkin traces the evolution of the Army Bootee from the development of the Jefferson Boot through the Blucher shoes worn by soldiers and cavalry of the Civil War. He discusses manufacturers, inspection marks, and the actual construction of the Bootee.


2) With colored slides, Al shows shoemakers at their benches and discusses the clothing they wear, tools, postures, work locations, and how so little has changed over the Centuries. Many of the slides were taken by Al at the recent tour of England's Shoe Museums by the Cordwainers.

Media
 
VOL 6
Shoemaking
By The Book
Al Saguto
38 Mins.

Hessian, Hussar,
Hungarian Boots
June Swann
33 mins.

Leather and
Tanning Museums
 of  France
Rene Hackstetter
19 mins.

1)  Using transparencies, Al examines shoemaking manuals from Medieval times through the 18th century. A time when shoemakers made wonderful shoes without the help of sewing machines and modern adhesives. How did they do it? What kinds of tools and materials did they use? What were the names of their tools? Al answers these questions with pictures of actual pages from the books used by those shoemakers.


2) With beautiful color slides, June introduces us to this boot style. She shows us exactly what makes a boot a Hessian, who made them, who wrote about them, and who wore them (cavalry, Napoleon, and - would you believe - billy the Kid, among others).


3)  As a bonus, Rene enthusiastically shares with us his recent tour of obscure French Leather museums. All charming small town museums

Media
 
Vol 8
Shoes from Columbus
to the Present
June Swann
45 mins.

The Shoemaking
Industry in Early
19th Century
Massachusetts
Peter Oakley
25 mins.

A Look lat Two
18th Century
Shoemakers
Paul Lurk
20 mins.

1)Using her personal collection of beautiful slides, June discusses American shoes and shoemaking from Primitive Native American footwear through the latest styles.

2) Peter Oakley presents an intriguing insight into this era of flourishing American shoe production with the aid of factory production figures, numbers of employees, excerpts from account books, and the actual diary of a shoemaker.


3) While doing research for setting up a shoemaking shop for George Washington’s Mount Vernon Museum, Paul stumbled upon the actual shoemakers that made shoes for our first president. They made shoes for George Washington at Mount Vernon.

Media
 
VOL 9
Shoemaking From
Historical Sources:
Preserving a
Process as an
Artifact
Al Saguto
45 mins.

Shoe Shop at
Plimouth Plantation
Rusty Moore
5 mins.

Military Acouterments of the 40th Regiment of Grenadiers
Tim Wilson
30 mins.

 

1) Working with his personal collection of slides and equipped with his background of years of work in Colonial Williamsburg's shoe shop, Al examines the philosophy of historical shoemaking in a museum environment.


2)  The Cordwainers visit the studio exhibit in the Plimoth Crafts Center for a personal impromptu tour of Rusty’s work at setting up a shoe shop to replicate 17th Century shoes.


3) Using detailed slides and diagrams, Tim presents his research on the reproduction of the uniform and leather equipment of the Grenadiers in the French and Indian War.

Media
 
VOL 10
18th c. Footwear, Shoemaking Tools, & Devices
Al Saguto
35 mins.

Cordwainer's Shoe Collection
Al Saguto
24 mins.

Double Channel English-Style
Top Boots
Kenneth Treese
49 mins.

 


1) Al Saguto. Master Shoemaker, Colonial Williamsburg, presents a slide presentation highlighting and describing the various tools and devices gathered from Colonial Williamsburg, private and international collections. The slides will photo-illustrate his forthcoming book, The Art of the Cordwainer by M. DeGarsault.

2) Al Saguto examines each pair of historical shoes in the Cordwainers’ Shoe Collection in chronological order, from the late 1770s through to the early 20th century. He displays and describes the details and construction technique of each piece.

3)  Kenneth discusses the construction of a pair of reproduction top boots from patterning to polishing.

Media
 
VOL 11
18th Century Apprenticeship
Harrold Gill
25 mins.

Reproducing
18th Century Shoemaking Tools
Peter Ross
56 mins.

Shoemakers of
New Hampshire
Bruce Graham
26 mins.

William Asadorian Archaeological Footwear Collection
Al Saguto
17 mins.

 

1) Gill,  Historian (ret.), Historic Trades Department, Colonial Williamsburg, 1961-1991, discusses his research on apprenticeship for 18th century trades. He covers apprenticeship indentures, education, and orphans, focusing on shoemakers and his book, Apprentices of Virginia, 1623-1800.


2)  Ross, Master Blacksmith, Colonial Williamsburg, shares his research on the background and detailed construction of reproduction 18th century pincers, nippers, and other related historic shoemaking tools as used in the Shoemaking shop at the museum.

3)  Bruce, historian/Cordwainer, New Hampshire. Using an old diary (1882) of his wife’s grandparents, who were part time shoemakers and part time farmers, Bruce discusses the history of shoemaking in New Hampshire. They “made shoes on the kitchen table“ and forwarded them to large manufacturers in his state.

4)  Saguto, Master Shoemaker, Colonial Williamsburg. Al displays and discusses Shoe remnants taken from the lower Manhattan, East River landfill. And donated to Colonial Williamsburg.

Media
 
VOL 13
This Old Shoe
Donna Albergotti
22 mins.

So You Want to  make shoes for a living
Bruce Graham
38 mins.

Living History, Hand Shoemaking in Ecuador
Dan Freeman
15 mins.

 

1) Following a spirited how-to orientation, Donna, separates the cordwainers into work groups for a hands-on workshop. Using paper, pencils and white cotton gloves, they examine identify and draw various mid to late 18th c. Shoes and fragments.

2) A discussion of the technical research and development Bruce has gone through to develop and market an affordable, hand made shoe.


3) A review and critique of a fascinating video of an Ecuadorian shoemaker who creates beautiful shoes with only a few simple (primitive) tools.

Media
 
VOL 15
The Smallest Shoes from the Museums of Europe
Alzbeta Kolcunova
38 mins.

Waxed Ends
D. W. Frommer
12 mins.

1)  A university paper delivered in the Czech Republic that examines children’s shoes from the Medieval period through the 20th century. Alzbeta includes an interesting formula for calculating the height of the children that wore those shoes.

2) Using inexpensive nylon line for a bristle and dacron polyester thread, D. W. presents an amazing hands-on demonstration using these unusual items to perform the same functions as an expensive hog’s bristle and linen thread.

Media
 
VOL 21
Digging Old Shoes
Al Saguto
37 mins.

Handmade Books
Bruce Graham
23 mina.

 

1)Using slides, Al examines the treasure trove of 18th century shoes as recovered from burial or under water, from sewers, wells or sunken ships.


2) A "Show & Tell" presentation of Bruce's latest interest, book binding. He shows off his beautiful leather bound books and fields how-to questions from the cordwainers.

Media
 
VOL 25
Mediaeval Shoes
Marc Carlson
60 mins.

Marc’s interests lie in how mediaeval shoes were made. In this presentation, he discusses several methods that he believes those ancient shoemakers used during this dark time period.

Media
 
VOL 27
Archaeological Shoes from the CW and Old Philadelphia Collections
Val Povinelli
45 mins.

Hoisting
Dan Freeman
45 mins.

1) Val presents the paper he is working on as his Journeyman project for Colonial Williamsburg. The detailed report includes the percentage of the shoes that were stitched, pegged, etc. down to counting the stitches per inch attained by those Colonial shoemakers.

2) Dan demonstrates the technique of lasting using the hoisting method by actually lasting a pump and a boot

Media
 
VOL 28
Walking in Big Ben's Shoes
Paul Lurk
46 mins.

Custom Lastmaking
Glen Leasure
45 mins.

 

1) Paul reproduced  a mid-19th Century Slave’s Shoes  Big Ben, a slave, was a huge man with extremely large feet. Paul tells Ben's story and examines one of Ben’s large shoes from a museum, then sets about creating a last for the shoe.

2) The STS Sock Method for making lasts. Using a fellow Cordwainer’s foot as a model, Glen demonstrates his techniques for creating a custom plaster last by taking a mold of the foot.

Media
 
VOL 34
Concealed Shoes in Massachusetts
Bruce Graham
23 mins.

The HCC Library
Marc Carlson
36 mins.

1) Bruce discusses shoes and other artifacts concealed in the walls of New England homes. He shows many of the old shoes using a power point slide show produced by Bruce and his wife, Penny.

2) Marc, the HCC Librarian, discusses the library collection and questions how to proceed with growing number of volumes.

Media
 
VOL 39
Whare's My Hammer
Marc Carlson
21 mins

Taping a Last to Obtain a Mean Form & Making Hand Wax
Nasser Vies
20 mins.

Patternmaking Tricks and Ideas
Dan Freeman
17 mins.

1) Marc discovered, while digging through old manuscripts and illustrations of shoemakers at work, that there were no hammers mentioned or shown. In this presentation, he probes the reasons for this oddity with the use of power point slides.

2) Nasser  demonstrates how he tapes a last to extract its form. He also shows us how he makes hand sewing wax using pine pitch and cooking oil.

3) Dan digs into his trick bag and gives us some new ideas for patternmaking.

Media
 
VOL 40
Emboidered Shoes 1790-1950
Edward F. Maeder
40 mins.

Custom Shoemaking Tips & Techniques
Dan Freeman
4 mins.

 

1) Maeder, the founding Director Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto, presents a Power Point study of the fine art of embroidery applied to footwear

2) Dan discusses a trick that he learned from June Swann to improve his custom footwear.

Media
 
VOL 41
Teaching at Penland Crafts School
Lisa Sorrell
31 mins.

The Life of Samuel Lane 1718-1806
Brett Walker
30 mins.

 

 1) Lisa, a custom bootmaker from Guthrie, Oklahoma, set up a course teaching leather art at Penland and, along with power point slides, discusses steps she took to create the course and problems she encountered and solved.

2)  Brett, a journeyman shoemaker at Colonial Williamsburgh, discusses  Samuel Lane who  kept a detailed journal of his day-to-day life as a New Hampshire shoemaker in the 18th Century. The New Hampshire Historical Society published a book of his writings. Brett discusses Samuel’s life with power point slides, as detailed in this book.

Media
 
Vol 42
Starting a Shoe Program at Fort Ticonderoga
Joel Anderson
32 mins.

The History of Peg Making
Paul Soares
33 mins.
1) Joel led the development of the fort’s historic trade program in 2012 including shoemaking and military tailoring. His presentation describes how Fort Ticonderoga conducted the research, sourced materials, and trained personnel for their newly established shoemaking program.

2) Paul owns Kearsarge Peg Company, located in Bartlett, NH that has been in continuous operation for 121 years. The original hardwood shoe pegs are still manufactured in the facility. Paul gives a tour of the history of the peg-making trade through a look at the history of Kearsarge.
Media
 
VOL 44
An Intimate Study of 17th Century Footwear in the Rijksmuseums' Paintin Collection
Edward Maeder
37 mins.

Examining Lincoln's Boots
Michaelo A. Carnacchi
40 mins.

The Effects the hcc has had onthe Rhode Island School of Design (RISD)
Kathleen Grevers
20 mins.

Making Orthotic Shoes Fit Mind and Foot
Carina Eneroth
25 mins.

1) Edward, is a former Curator of Costumes and Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and founding director of the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto. In this presentation he analyzes the footwear worn by the subjects in the 17th century paintings in the Rijksmuseum's collection in Amsterdam, Netherlands.

2) Michael, a bootmaker in Sebastopol, California, received a commission from the Ford Theater and the National Park Service to recreate the boots that Lincoln was wearing when he was assasinated. In this presentation, he details the commission, from actually handling Lincoln's boots through his completion of the recreation.

3) Kathleen, Senior Critic, Apparel Design, RISD, has a  colleague who attended the preceding year's AGM and brought ideas that she had learned back to the school. Kathleen discusses the impact that has had on the school's curriculum and especially to Italian shoe design.

4)  Carina, master shoemaker in Sweden and Official Shoemaker to the Swedish Royal Family, discusses techniques that she uses to create orthotic shoes that are both attractive and orthotically correct.

Media
 
Vol 45
 
The Private Life of Shoes, showcasing shoes throughout history and the modern day, from around the world, epitomizing creativity and design.
Edward Maeder

 The Evolution of Design: Leather Inlay and Overlay, demonstrating the development and variability of artistic design in elegant cowboy boots for women and men.
Lisa Sorell
1)  Edward  is the Costume & Textile Consultant, and former Curator of Costumes and Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, founding director of the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto.


2) Lisa is an  Artist & Bootmaker, as well as an  HCC Board Member.
Media
 
Vol 46

Shoemaking through the Ages, June Swann.
Read by Al Saguto

The Renaissance of Handmade – Exploring the future scenarios of our craft, our advantages vs. the factory work, what is our role in this age to preserve the craft
Marcell Mrsan
1) June Swann M.B.E., Assistant and then Keeper of the Boot and Shoe Collection, Northampton Museum (England) 1950-1988. With her slides, Al reads June's paper, History of Shoes and Shoemaking – Shoemaking through the Ages,  which examines the history of the trade from ancient Greece through the rise of the industrial West, to the modern day.

2) Marcell Mrsan, Accredited Master Shoemaker, owner and maker of Koronya Handmade Shoes and Boots, Professor at SCAD.  Enjoining shoemakers to celebrate a tradition of excellence and unite in preserving their skills and heritage.
Media
Vol 47
 Sculpting Platform Soles
Daphne Board
13 mins.

 Jack-boots
Val Povinelli
30 mins.
1) Daphne discusses her technique for  Sculpting Platform Soles: Aesthetics and Biomechanics, creating fashion-forward shoes that are both wearable and beautiful.

2)Val is a  Journeyman Shoemaker, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, presents a look at  Jack-boots that were once the property of Thomas Lord Fairfax – Research into and Recreation of his Boots, for the first time in nearly 200 years recreating the process of making a jack-boot (with great fire pictures).
Media
 
Vol 49
Kathleen Grevers
Design Delusions; Grey Matter Shoes
33 mins

Kimberly Alexander
Coveting Calamancos: From London to Lynn
33 mins
1) Kathleen is the  Senior Critic, Apparel Design, Rhode Island School of Design “Design Delusions; Grey Matter Shoes” This presentation  highlights  the intelligence of shoe design and how academia pushes critical collaboration and cross disciplines to derive a more ecological and sustainable approach to footwear.

2) Kimberly Alexander, Ph.D., University of New Hampshire. A presentation discussing the author’s book “Georgian Shoes, Stories from Early America" Johns Hopkins University Press.
Media
 
Vol 50
St. Crispin's Lance Brett Walker
30 mins

Rick Roman
How to Build a Fume Hood on a Budget
24 mins.

Al Saguto
Interesting Tools from the Mercer's Tool Collection
10 mins
1) Brett is an Independent Scholar, Journeyman Shoemaker. “St. Crispin's Lance with Braddock & Forbes: British shoes, shoemaking, and shoe-repairing on two campaigns against Duquesne.” Combining documentation about logistical difficulties of supplying the campaigns, with the archaeological data derived from the Fort Ligonier collection—the largest collection of mid-18thc British military footwear.

2)Rick, proprietor of  Romango Handmade Shoes,  presents his  plans for building a safe and effective fume hood complete with detailed drawings and materials. In addition he  reviews common solvents encountered in shoemaking and their relative hazards.

3)The Mercer Museum, Doylestown, PA, where the meeting was held, has one of the finest collections of shoemaking tools in the United States. Al selected several of the most interesting and unique tools and discusses them with the cordwainers.
Media
 
51
Shaun Pekar
Another Man's Treasure, Eastfield Village and The Shoemaking Collection of Don Carpentier
42 mins.

Terry Burress
The Slashed Shoe
50 mins.
Shaun is an  Independent Historic Shoemaker. From its inception in 1971, Historic Eastfield Village grew to become the dream-realized of Don Carpentier, a self-taught renaissance man interested in historic preservation and historic trades. Carpentier would amass over the course of his life a collection of 30 historic structures (dating from the 1790’s to the 1850’s) as well as enough tools and antiques to fill most of those buildings to the rafters. Its only in the years subsequent to his passing in 2014 that an effort to catalog his collections has begun, and thus the true depth of his collections fully realized.

Terry presents  The Slashed Shoe, a Comparison of 20th Century Long (tall) Work  Boot) Patterns – Part Deux: Back Seamed Patterns. He Examines more than a dozen historical and contemporary publications on boot patterns, including: Pattern Cutting Made Easy - Brophy, Thomas J. Jun. (1889); Boot and Shoe Pattern Cutting and Clicking - Hasluck, Paul N.; Editor (1906); Introduction to The Theory and Practice of Boot and Shoe Manufacture - Plucknett, Frank (1922); Boot and Shoe Design and Manufacture - Swaysland, Edward J. C. (1926); Boots and Shoes, Their Making Manufacturing and Selling - Golding, F. Y.; Editor (1934); Boot and Shoe Maker - Bordoli, Ernest; General Editor (1936, first printing 1935); Textbook of Footwear Manufacture - Thornton, J. H.; Editor (1964, first printing 1953); and other works.
Media
 
52
Bruce Graham
When Progress is a Step Backward
38 mins.

Edward Maeder
A Walk through the World of Shoes: From Davy Crocket to Randy Athletes
44 mins.
1) Bruce is the owner of  Gossville Shoes. His presentation, Modern to Historical: When Progress is a Step Backward is the story of his  journey, from his  start in the trade making modern shoes, to his progression/regression to making reenactor footwear. He discusses techniques, decisions, and rationale.

2) Edward is a Costume & Textile Consultant. He is the former Curator of Costumes and Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and the founding director of the Bata Shoe Museum. He postulates that we all have a lifelong and intimate relationship with our shoes. This presentation is about his  personal journey, an unexpected path that included everything from Post-Toasties moccasins to the world of Ferragamo and then on to trademark litigation. From Los Angeles to Europe and beyond. He  shares some of these shoe stories along with revealing images.
Media
 
54
Edward Maeder
ERSATZ: German-English-French- Substitute Materials Used for Shoes
28 mins.

John Welch
The service they could render would be momentary: French Contract Shoes of the American Revolution
36 mins.
1) Edward is a Costume & Textile Consultant. He is the  former Curator of Costumes and Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and founding director of the Bata Shoe Museum. His presentation, His presentation Begins with his chance discovery of a man’s two-piece suit made of twisted/woven paper in the collection of the Hood Museum at Dartmouth College in New Hampshire, and the accompanying boots made of the same material, opened a world of woven paper clothing. This was an important part of domestic production during the First World War, particularly in Germany where between 1914-1919, more than 200,000 people were employed in this industry. This presentation concentrates on the footwear that, by necessity, was made of paper during and after both World Wars, primarily in Europe: Germany, Austria and Finland.

2) John is an Apprentice Shoemaker, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation. His presentation  discusses the fact that while the weapons and uniforms supplied by France to the fledgling United States during the American War for Independence have been well studied, little attention has been given to the shoes that were included in these contracts. Drawing on Primary sources and a unique collection of surviving originals, apprentice shoemaker John  explores this aspect of the strugg
le to provide the Continental Army with footwear and the shoes that of necessity were taken into service.
Media