Complete hcc Video Library |
VOL 1 Historic Shoemaking June Swann 58 mins |
June is the former Keeper of the Shoe Collection for Northampton Central Museum, Northampton, England. In this presentation, she uses her collection of colored slides as she traces the history of shoemaking from Ancient Rome through the development of the modern factory. She details the way hand cutting and stitching evolved into modern shoemaking machinery. | ; |
VOL 2 Military Shoes 1911-1915 Capt. Peterkin 34 mins Modern Manufacture Larry Waller 35 mins |
1) The late Capt. Peterkin discusses the shoes and boots worn by sailors and soldiers around the world during this volatile period for military footwear. He outlines an era that began with soldiers wearing shoes that were so uncomfortable it cost them their battles, and ended with the development of the Munson Last, the foundation for "the best shoe ever furnished American trooops." 2)The development of Larry's shop, the Walrus Shoe Factory where he makes period shoes for re-enactors and museum living history personnel such as at Colonial Williamsburg and Old Sturbridge Village. |
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VOL 3 Anatomy of Archaeological Shoes Al Saguto 66 mins. |
With transparencies, showing technical drawings of actual shoes from the 17th, 18th, & 19th centuries, Al discusses shoe archaeology. The drawings illustrate disassembled shoes and show how they were constructed and repaired. Following the transparencies, Al and Dean Nelson show and discuss Dean's fabulous collection of recovered footwear from the same centuries | |
VOL 4 Operating a Successful Shoemaking Shop Dan Freeman 37 mins. Conducting a Shoemaking Workshop Peter Oakley 46 mins. |
1) Mr. Freeman is a custom shoemaker. Like most Cordwainers, Dan loves to make shoes. In this roundtable discussion, he explores the various techniques for making a living while becoming successful enough to support yourself with your craft. The Cordwainers describe their individual efforts to resolve this ever present problem. 2) Mr. Oakley works in the shoemaking shop at Old Sturbridge Village and regularly teaches a course on making historical shoes. In this presentation, he discusses his techniques for running successful workshops, including class sizes, course length, tools and materials. |
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VOL 5 US Army Bootee 1861-1865 Capt. Peterkin 37 mins. Shoemakers at Work 1474 - 1877 Al Saguto 40 mins. |
1) Using transparencies, the late Capt. Peterkin traces the evolution of the Army Bootee from the development of the Jefferson Boot through the Blucher shoes worn by soldiers and cavalry of the Civil War. He discusses manufacturers, inspection marks, and the actual construction of the Bootee.
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VOL 6 Shoemaking By The Book Al Saguto 38 Mins. Hessian, Hussar, Hungarian Boots June Swann 33 mins. Leather and Tanning Museums of France Rene Hackstetter 19 mins. |
1) Using transparencies, Al examines shoemaking manuals from Medieval times through the 18th century. A time when shoemakers made wonderful shoes without the help of sewing machines and modern adhesives. How did they do it? What kinds of tools and materials did they use? What were the names of their tools? Al answers these questions with pictures of actual pages from the books used by those shoemakers.
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Vol 7 Making a 19th Century Pegged Shoe Peter Oakley 70 mins. |
A hands on, how to, workshop (practically a seminar) on making this style of shoe so popular in the 1800s. Using shoes in various stages of completion, Peter shows the way, from attaching the insole to the last through burnishing and finishing the bottom. He uses and discusses the tools, the thread, the materials and, of course, the pegs. Depending on how much knowledge you bring to this video, you could conceivabley make you own peg shoes after watching it. A must have for the craftsman’s video library. | |
Vol 8 Shoes from Columbus to the Present June Swann 45 mins. The Shoemaking Industry in Early 19th Century Massachusetts Peter Oakley 25 mins. A Look lat Two 18th Century Shoemakers Paul Lurk 20 mins. |
1)Using her personal collection of beautiful slides, June discusses
American shoes and shoemaking from Primitive Native American footwear
through the latest styles. 2) Peter Oakley presents an intriguing insight into this era of flourishing American shoe production with the aid of factory production figures, numbers of employees, excerpts from account books, and the actual diary of a shoemaker.
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VOL 9 Shoemaking From Historical Sources: Preserving a Process as an Artifact Al Saguto 45 mins. Shoe Shop at Plimouth Plantation Rusty Moore 5 mins. Military Acouterments of the 40th Regiment of Grenadiers Tim Wilson 30 mins. |
1) Working with his personal collection of slides and equipped with his background of years of work in a museum shoe shop, Al examines the philosophy of historical shoemaking in museum environment.
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VOL 10 Double Channel English-Style Top Boots Kenneth Treese 49 mins. 18th c. Footwear, Shoemaking Tools, & Devices Al Saguto 35 mins. Cordwainer's Shoe Collection Al Saguto 24 mins. |
1) Double Channel English-Style Top Boots (49 mins.), Kenneth Treese. The construction of a pair of reproduction top boots from patterning to polishing.
2) Al Saguto. Master Shoemaker, Colonial Williamsburg, presents a slide
presentation highlighting and describing the various tools and devices
gathered from Colonial Williamsburg, private and international
collections. The slides will photo-illustrate his forthcoming book, The
Art of the Cordwainer by M. DeGarsault. 3) Cordwainer's Shoe Collection (24 mins.), Al
Saguto examines each pair of
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VOL 11 18th Century Apprenticeship Harrold Gill 25 mins. Reproducing 18th Century Shoemaking Tools Peter Ross 56 mins. Shoemakers of New Hampshire Bruce Graham 26 mins. William Asadorian Archaeological Footwear Collection Al Saguto 17 mins. |
1) Gill, Historian (ret.), Historic Trades Department, Colonial Williamsburg, 1961-1991, discusses his research on apprenticeship for 18th century trades. He covers apprenticeship indentures, education, and orphans, focusing on shoemakers and his book, Apprentices of Virginia, 1623-1800.
3) Graham, historian/Cordwainer, New Hampshire. Using an old
diary (1882) of his wife’s grandparents, who were part time shoemakers
and part time farmers, Bruce discusses the history of shoemaking in New
Hampshire. They “made shoes on the kitchen table“ and forwarded them to
large manufacturers in his state. |
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VOL 12 The Ubiquitous Shoe Last: A Look at Lasts Old & New Al Saguto & Dan Freeman 42 mins. Critique of Simple Shoemaking Techniques Sharon Raymond 29 mins. |
1) Using an extensive collection of lasts, Al discusses the history of the last from Ancient times to the present. Dan discusses the utilitarian functions of the last. 2) Sharon discusses her craft of using a molded foil technique for creating a pattern for constructing custom simple stitch-down shoes. |
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VOL 13 This Old Shoe Donna Albergotti 22 mins. So You Want to make shoes for a living Bruce Graham 38 mins. Living History, Hand Shoemaking in Ecuador Dan Freeman 15 mins. |
1) Following a spirited how-to orientation, Donna, separates the cordwainers into work groups for a hands-on workshop. Using paper, pencils and white cotton gloves, they examine identify and draw various mid to late 18th c. Shoes and fragments. 2) A discussion of the technical research and development he's gone through to develop and market an affordable, hand made shoe.
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Vol 14 Crimping the Full Wellington Boot D.W.Frommer 60 mins |
In this amazing presentation, D. W. performs a step-by-step demonstration of how he crimps a full (one piece front) Wellington boot by hand, doing the seemingly impossible with just wet leather, crimping boards, clamps, a hammer, tacks, and a few hand tools. | |
VOL 15 The Smallest Shoes from the Museums of Europe Alzbeta Kolcunova 38 mins. Waxed Ends D. W. Frommer 12 mins. |
1) A university paper delivered in the Czech Republic that examines children’s shoes from the Medieval period through the 20th century. Includes an interesting formula for calculating the height of the children that wore those shoes. 2) Using inexpensive nylon line for a bristle and dacron polyester thread, D. W. presents an amazing hands-on demonstration using these unusual items to perform the same functions as an expensive hog’s bristle and linen thread. |
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VOL 16 Tour of the Walrus Shoe Factory Larry Waller 30 mins. Esperiences of a London Shoemaker Peter Schweiger 28 mins. |
1) An enthusiastic complete tour of the factory where Larry manufactures replica historical shoes for museum personnel and re-enactors. He demonstrates his extensive collection of antique and modern shoe machines. 2) Peter spins riveting yarns from “Ol’ Blighty”, interesting and bizarre customers and the unusual requests he’s encountered in the many years of his London shop. |
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Vol 17 Making Classic 60s Style Sandals John Bailey 60 mins. |
John learned the trade in 1970s Boston, when there was literally a sandal maker on every street corner of all the major cities. In this presentation he designs and completes, step by step, a molded sole, Rilleau sling sandal, one of the most popular styles of the era. He includes a generous sprinkling of anecdotes from those glorious days of the beatnik/hippie sandal makers. | |
Vol 18 Boot Inseaming Jake Dobbins 54 mins. |
Arkansas Boot Maker, Jake, learned the trade from D. W. Frommer. In this presentation he demonstrates the art of inseaming the welt of a western boot as taught by D. W. | |
Vol 19 Practical Pattern Making Frank Jones 80 mins. |
Using a technique of wrapping the last with masking tape, Frank creates a last draft and completes the patterns for a ladies pump. A great hands-on, how to demonstration. | |
VOL 20 Making Orthotics, Dick Anderson, 56 mins. |
Using the tools of his trade, Dick takes foot impressions and completes a pair of orthotics for one of the cordwainers. Includes a discussion of foot disorders and tricks of the trade. | |
VOL 21 Digging Old Shoes Al Saguto 37 mins. Handmade Books Bruce Graham 23 mins. |
1)Using slides, Al examines the treasure trove of 18th century shoes as recovered from burial or under water, from sewers, wells or sunken ships.
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VOL 22 Patterning Uppers Dan Freeman, 42 mins. |
Using lasts and pattern paper, Dan outlines his techniques for creating patterns, including how he “springs” the toe so it conforms to the curved bottom of the last. Another great hands-on video. | |
Vol 23 Solutions for Simple Shoemaking Sharon Raymond 35 mins Making Fasion Shoes Ellen Hess 12 mins. |
1) Sharon has written a book and given a previous presentation to the Cordwainers about her technique of patterning and constructing outstitched shoes. She discusses how her career and techniques have evolved since the book and the presentation. 2) Ellen first learned the craft of simple shoemaking from Sharon. Her interest piqued, she determined to make shoes on a last. This led her to a shoemaking course at FIT where they featured the art of fashion shoemaking. Ellen discusses the techniques she has learned and displays her work. |
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Vol 24 Hand Sewing an Outsole Jake Dobbins 60 mins. |
Jake demonstrates the art of hand sewing an outsole, virtually duplicating the work of a curved needle stitcher. He discusses cutting the groove in the sole, punching the holes through the welt and sole, and finally, attaching the bristle to the thread and sewing with it. | |
VOL 25 Mediaeval Shoes Marc Carlson 60 mins. |
Marc’s interests lie in how mediaeval shoes were made. In this presentation, he discusses several methods that he believes those ancient shoemakers used during this dark time period. | |
VOL 26 Making an Awl Blade Dick Anderson 60 mins. |
Dick demonstrates the art of creating a curved awl blade from cutting a length of raw steel through the finishing, polishing and attachment of the handle. All of Dicks tools, works of art, are coveted by working cordwainers. | |
VOL 27 Archaeological Shoes from the CW and Old Philadelphia Collections Val Povinelli 45 mins. Hoisting Dan Freeman 45 mins. |
1) Val presents the paper he is working on as his Journeyman project for Colonial Williamsburg. The detailed report includes the percentage of the shoes that were stitched, pegged, etc. down to counting the stitches per inch attained by those Colonial shoemakers. 2) Dan demonstrates the technique of lasting using the hoisting method by actually lasting a pump and a boot |
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VOL 28 Walking in Big Ben's Shoes Paul Lurk 46 mins. Custom Lastmaking Glen Leasure 45 mins. |
1) Paul reproduced a mid-19th Century Slave’s Shoes Big Ben, a slave, was a huge man with extremely large feet. Paul tells Ben's story and examines one of Ben’s large shoes from a museum, then sets about creating a last for the shoe. 2) The STS Sock Method for making lasts. Using a fellow Cordwainer’s foot as a model, Glen demonstrates his techniques for creating a custom plaster last by taking a mold of the foot. |
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VOL 29 Hand Sharpening Tools Dick Anderson 16 mins. Bootmaking as a business Lisa Sorrell 39 mins. |
1) Dick demonstrates his techniques for sharpening his tools. 2) Lisa is a custom bootmaker from Guthrie, Oklahoma. She opened her successful boot shop in 1966. She recently won the Master Bootmaker Division at the Boot and Saddlemakers roundup in Wichita Falls. In this video, she discusses the challenges of developing a successful business building boots |
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Vol 30 Use of Adhesives David Ulan 55 mins. |
David is a certified pedorthist and a footwear instructor at Fashion Institute of Technology. He owns and operates The Cobbler & Cordwainer, LTD, established in 1977. His extensive resoling experience has caused David to work with and understand varied cement processes. In this presentation, he shares his knowledge of these techniques. | |
VOL 31 Lasting a One-Piece Upper Dan Freeman 8 mins. Creating a Meanform by Rubber Cementing Canvas to a Last Sharlot Battin 25 mins. |
1) Dan discusses his technique for lasting a shoe with a one-piece upper. 2) Sharlot is a theatrical footwear shoemaker and teacher. Professor Battin has been teaching classes at F.I.T. for over twenty years and has developed most of the footwear courses for the Accessories Design Department. In this video She demonstrates her unique method for creating a meanform with rubber cement and canvas. |
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VOL 32 Quest for Shoes Georgene McKim 1:14 mins |
Georgene traces her four year journey to becoming a shoemaker. Benefits from the tips and tricks she learned along the way, plus the insights she gained during her unexpected new career as a worldwide dealer in vintage shoe lasts, shoe patterns, and hard-to-find shoemaking materials. | |
Vol 33 CAD Pattern Making Rick Roman 40 mins. From Manufacturing to Teaching the Trade Frank Jones 39 mins. |
1) Rick demonstrates a program that he developed and shares for making computer assisted shoe patterns. 2. Frank Jones dicusses his evolution from working in shoe factories to teaching the shoemaking trade. |
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VOL 34 Concealed Shoes in Massachusetts Bruce Graham 23 mins. The HCC Library Marc Carlson 36 mins. |
1) Bruce discusses shoes and other artifacts concealed in the walls of New England homes. He shows many of the old shoes using a power point slide show produced by Bruce and his wife, Penny. 2) Marc, the HCC Librarian, discusses the library collection and questions how to proceed with growing number of volumes. |
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Vol 35 Sneaky Tricks for Womans Shoes Georgene McKimm 50 mins. Knife and Awl Sharpening Dick Anderson 12 mins. English Shoemakers Zoe Rios 5 mins. |
1) Georgene, a shoemaker specializing in women's shoes and boots, discusses tricks she has learned for creating her popular products. 2) A maker of fine hand tools from wisconsin demonstrates addtional techniques for tool sharpening and discusses with the cordwainers their specific needs. 3) Zoe grew up near Windsor, England and studied fashion design in London. After moving to Central Texas, she began learning the art of traditional leatherwork from the master craftsmen at Uptmore Saddlery. Today, she is one of a small number of bespoke shoemakers, creating top-quality, handmade shoes and handbags. In this presentation she discusses her experiences on a study trip to her mother country, England, where she met with and interviewed shoemakers. |
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VOL 36 Thread Preparation for Boot & Shoemaking Nasser Vies 25 mins. Inlay Techniques Lisa Sorrell 24 mins. Pull-up holes for Boots D. W. Frommer 27 mins. |
1) Nasser demonstrates his techniques for waxing and twisting strands of thread to make various weights of thread for stitching shoes and boots. 2) Lisa, a custom bootmaker from Guthrie, Oklahoma, demonstrates her boot inlaying methods by creating an inlaid bookmark. 3) D. W. displays and discusses the tool he uses and shows us how he builds pull-up holes for his boots. |
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Vol 37 Pegging 101 Peter Oakley 66 mins. |
Peter demonstrates his techniques and tricks for making a pegged shoe. Similar to his demonstration in Vol VII, Peter includes some new methods for this 19th century technique of shoemaking. | |
VOL 38 Creating a Meanform by Rubber Cementing Canvas to a Last Sharlot Battin 54 mins. Shoes For Shows Sharlott Battin 27 mins. |
1) Duplicating her presentation in Vol XXXI, Sharlot goes into even more detail regarding this techniqe and presents new ideas she has learned since then. She also discusses last nomenclature 2) Using a power point presentation of slides, Sharlot shows us the shoes she has created for the casts of Broadway shows. |
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VOL 39 Whare's My Hammer Marc Carlson 21 mins Taping a Last to Obtain a Mean Form & Making Hand Wax Nasser Vies 20 mins. Patternmaking Tricks and Ideas Dan Freeman 17 mins. |
1) Marc discovered, while digging through old manuscripts and illustrations of shoemakers at work, that there were no hammers mentioned or shown. In this presentation, he probes the reasons for this oddity with the use of power point slides. 2) Nasser demonstrates how he tapes a last to extract its form. He also shows us how he makes hand sewing wax using pine pitch and cooking oil. 3) Dan digs into his trick bag and gives us some new ideas for patternmaking. |
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VOL 40 Emboidered Shoes 1790-1950 Edward F. Maeder 40 mins. Custom Shoemaking Tips & Techniques Dan Freeman 4 mins. |
1) Maeder, the founding Director Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto,
presents a Power Point study of the fine art of embroidery applied
to footwear
2) Dan discusses a trick that he learned from June Swann to improve his custom footwear. |
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VOL 41 Teaching at Penland Crafts School Lisa Sorrell 31 mins. The Life of Samuel Lane 1718-1806 Brett Walker 30 mins. |
1) Lisa, a custom bootmaker from Guthrie, Oklahoma, set up a
course teaching leather art at Penland and, along with power point
slides, discusses steps she took to create the course and problems she
encountered and solved. 2) Brett, a journeyman shoemaker at Colonial Williamsburgh, discusses Samuel Lane who kept a detailed journal of his day-to-day life as a New Hampshire shoemaker in the 18th Century. The New Hampshire Historical Society published a book of his writings. Brett discusses Samuel’s life with power point slides, as detailed in this book. |
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Vol 42 Starting a Shoe Program at Fort Ticonderoga Joel Anderson 32 mins. The History of Peg Making Paul Soares 33 mins. |
1) Joel led the development
of the fort’s historic trade program in 2012 including shoemaking and
military tailoring. His presentation describes how Fort Ticonderoga
conducted the research, sourced materials, and trained personnel for
their newly established shoemaking program. 2) Paul owns Kearsarge Peg Company, located in Bartlett, NH that has been in continuous operation for 121 years. The original hardwood shoe pegs are still manufactured in the facility. Paul gives a tour of the history of the peg-making trade through a look at the history of Kearsarge. |
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Vol 43 Casting the Foot For Making a Shoe Last Dick Anderson 42 mins. Selecting and Fitting Lasts Lisa Sorrell 48 mins. Finishing Shoes Marcell Mrsan 40 mins. Brains to Boots Lynn Mcnabb 30 mins. |
1) Dick is the owner/bootmaker of Thornapple River Boots, Ladysmith, Wis. In this demonstration he builds a last by casting the foot of one of the cordwainers. 2) Lisa is the owner/bootmaker of Sorrell Custom Boots, Guthrie, OK. In this demonstration, she details techniques for selecting and fitting custom lasts for her customers. 3) Marcell is a master shoemaker in Hungary. In this PPT presentation, he discusses his techniques for shaping and finishing heels, soles, and the complete shoe. 4) Lynn is a custom bootmaker in Ontario and has been having difficulty finding satisfactory leather for her trade so she began tanning her own hides. In this practical demonstration, she actually tans the hide of a raccoon that she found as road kill near the sight of the hcc's annual meeting, using the animal's brains as the tanning material. |
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VOL 44 An Intimate Study of 17th Century Footwear in the Rijksmuseums' Paintin Collection Edward Maeder 37 mins. Examining Lincoln's Boots Michaelo A. Carnacchi 40 mins. The Effects the hcc has had onthe Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) Kathleen Grevers 20 mins. Making Orthotic Shoes Fit Mind and Foot Carina Eneroth 25 mins. |
1) Edward, is a former Curator of Costumes and Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and founding director of the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto. In this presentation he analyzes the footwear worn by the subjects in the 17th century paintings in the Rijksmuseum's collection in Amsterdam, Netherlands. 2) Michael, a bootmaker in Sebastopol, California, received a commission from the Ford Theater and the National Park Service to recreate the boots that Lincoln was wearing when he was assasinated. In this presentation, he details the commission, from actually handling Lincoln's boots through his completion of the recreation. 3) Kathleen, Senior Critic, Apparel Design, RISD, has a colleague who attended the preceding year's AGM and brought ideas that she had learned back to the school. Kathleen discusses the impact that has had on the school's curriculum and especially to Italian shoe design. 4) Carina, master shoemaker in Sweden and Official Shoemaker to the Swedish Royal Family, discusses techniques that she uses to create orthotic shoes that are both attractive and orthotically correct. |
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Vol 45 The Private Life of Shoes, showcasing shoes throughout history and the modern day, from around the world, epitomizing creativity and design. Edward Maeder 49 mins. The Evolution of Design: Leather Inlay and Overlay, Lisa Sorell 26 mins. |
1) Edward is the Costume & Textile Consultant, and former
Curator of Costumes and Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of
Art, founding director of the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto. 2) Lisa is an Artist & Bootmaker, as well as an HCC Board Member. In this presentation, she demonstrates the development and variagbility of artistic design in elegant cowboy boots for women and men. |
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Vol 46 Shoemaking through the Ages, June Swann. Read by Al Saguto 15 mins. The Renaissance of Handmade – Exploring the future scenarios of our craft, our advantages vs. the factory work, what is our role in this age to preserve the craft Marcell Mrsa 43 mins. |
1) June Swann M.B.E., Assistant and then Keeper of the Boot and
Shoe Collection, Northampton Museum (England) 1950-1988. Al Saguto, Master Boot & Shoemaker, Colonial
Williamsburg Foundation, examines June's history of the trade from ancient
Greece through the rise of the industrial West, to the modern day. 2) Marcell Mrsan, Accredited Master Shoemaker, owner and maker of Koronya Handmade Shoes and Boots, Professor at SCAD. Enjoining shoemakers to celebrate a tradition of excellence and unite in preserving their skills and heritage. |
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Vol 47 Sculpting Platform Soles Daphne Board 13 mins. Jack-boots Val Povinelli 30 mins. |
1) Daphne Board discusses her technique for Sculpting
Platform Soles: Aesthetics and Biomechanics, creating fashion-forward
shoes that are both wearable and beautiful. 2)Val is a Journeyman Shoemaker, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation – Jack-boots Once the Property of Thomas Lord Fairfax – Research into and Recreation of his Boots, for the first time in nearly 200 years recreating the process of making a jack-boot (with great fire pictures). |
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Vol 48 Tuscany Leather Consortium Diane Becker and Massimo Boldrini 1:45 mins |
Introducing the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale, Tuscan Veg-tanned Leather, the Tuscan Leather District, outlines the vegetable tanning process and its sustainability in sourcing and producing veg-tanned leather, and the standards of quality guaranteed by its trademark, as well as the project Craft the Leather, collections created by young designer/makers from ten international design institutes. | |
Vol 49 Kathleen Grevers Design Delusions; Grey Matter Shoes 33 mins Kimberly Alexander Coveting Calamancos: From London to Lynn 33 mins |
1)
Kathleen Grevers, Senior Critic, Apparel Design, Rhode Island School of
Design.
This presentation highlights the intelligence of shoe design
and how academia pushes critical collaboration and cross disciplines to
derive a more ecological and sustainable approach to footwear. 2) Kimberly Alexander, Ph.D., University of New Hampshire. A presentation discussing the author’s book “Georgian Shoes, Stories from Early America" Johns Hopkins University Press. |
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Vol 50 Brett Walker St. Crispin's Lance 30 mins Rick Roman How to Build a Fume Hood on a Budget 24 mins. Al Saguto Interesting Tools from the Mercer's Tool Collection 10 mins |
1) Brett is an Independent
Scholar, Journeyman Shoemaker. “St. Crispin's Lance with Braddock &
Forbes: British shoes, shoemaking, and shoe-repairing on two campaigns
against Duquesne.” Combining documentation about logistical difficulties
of supplying the campaigns, with the archaeological data derived from
the Fort Ligonier collection—the largest collection of mid-18thc British
military footwear. 2)Rick Roman, Romango Handmade Shoes, presents a plan to build a safe and effective fume hood complete with detailed plans and materials. In addition he reviews common solvents encountered in shoemaking and their relative hazards. 3)The Mercer Museum, Doylestown, PA, where the meeting was held, has one of the finest collections of shoemaking tools in the United States. Al selected several of the most interesting and unique tools and discusses them with the cordwainers. |
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51 Shaun Pekar Another Man's Treasure, Eastfield Village and The Shoemaking Collection of Don Carpentier 42 Mins. Terry Burress The Slashed Shoe 50 mins. |
1) Shaun is an
Independent Historic Shoemaker. From its inception in 1971, Historic
Eastfield Village would grow to become the dream-realized of Don
Carpentier, a self-taught renaissance man interested in historic
preservation and historic trades. Carpentier would amass over the course
of his life a collection of 30 historic structures (dating from the
1790’s to the 1850’s) as well as enough tools and antiques to fill most
of those buildings to the rafters. Its only in the years subsequent to
his passing in 2014 that an effort to catalog his collections has begun,
and thus the true depth of his collections fully realized. 2) Terry presents a Comparison of 20th Century Long (tall) Work Boot) Patterns – Part Deux: Back Seamed Patterns. He Examines more than a dozen historical and contemporary publications on boot patterns, including: Pattern Cutting Made Easy - Brophy, Thomas J. Jun. (1889); Boot and Shoe Pattern Cutting and Clicking - Hasluck, Paul N.; Editor (1906); Introduction to The Theory and Practice of Boot and Shoe Manufacture - Plucknett, Frank (1922); Boot and Shoe Design and Manufacture - Swaysland, Edward J. C. (1926); Boots and Shoes, Their Making Manufacturing and Selling - Golding, F. Y.; Editor (1934); Boot and Shoe Maker - Bordoli, Ernest; General Editor (1936, first printing 1935); Textbook of Footwear Manufacture - Thornton, J. H.; Editor (1964, first printing 1953); and other works. |
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52 Bruce Graham When Progress is a Step Backward 38 mins. Edward Maeder A Walk through the World of Shoes: From Davy Crocket to Randy Athletes 44 mins. |
1) Bruce is the owner of
Gossville Shoes. His presentation, Modern to Historical: When Progress
is a Step Backward is the story of his journey, from his
start in the trade making modern shoes, to his progression/regression to
making reenactor footwear. He discusses techniques, decisions, and
rationale. 2) Edward is a Costume & Textile Consultant. He is the former Curator of Costumes and Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and the founding director of the Bata Shoe Museum. He postulates that we all have a lifelong and intimate relationship with our shoes. This presentation is about his personal journey, an unexpected path that included everything from Post-Toasties moccasins to the world of Ferragamo and then on to trademark litigation. From Los Angeles to Europe and beyond. He shares some of these shoe stories along with revealing images. |
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53 Brett Walker The Gentle Art & Its Mysteries 32 mins. Bruce Graham Different Construction for Different Purposes 29 mins. |
1) Brett is a
Journeyman Boot- & Shoe-Maker, and Proprietor of Bt.W. & Co. In
this presentation, The Gentle
Art & Its Mysteries: Lore, Legend, and Little-Known Legit Facts of
Shoemaking, he discusses the fact that the
shoemaking trade is one of the richest trades - if not the richest trade
- in the way of folklore, stories humorous and tragic, legends, patron
saints, illustrious practitioners, oddly-named tools and terms, and just
plain mysteries. Some of these are lost to our knowledge, others have
varying degrees of factuality, and many are just plain puzzling. Brett
provides a "Whitman's Sampler" of some of his favorites, with
explanations and applications to the actual historical practice of the
trade. 2) Bruce is the proprieto of Gossville Shoes. His presentation, Different Constructions for Different Purposes—Choosing the Construction that Suits Your Purpose and Product, discusses various shoe constructions, and which are best suited for what kind of shoes. Making pumps? Maybe use a thinner inner sole and roll the insole at the edge. Work boots? Goodyear- or hand-welted. Dancing shoes? Maybe they need to be turnshoe. Basically, make the construction fit the application; the application dictates the necessity of the various construction methods. |
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54 Edward Maeder ERSATZ: German-English-French- Substitute Materials Used for Shoes 28 mins. John Welch The service they could render would be momentary: French Contract Shoes of the American Revolution 36 mins. |
1) Edward is a Costume &
Textile Consultant. He is the former Curator of Costumes and
Textiles at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, and founding director
of the Bata Shoe Museum. His presentation begins with
his chance discovery of a man’s two-piece suit made of twisted/woven
paper in the collection of the Hood Museum at Dartmouth College in New
Hampshire, and the accompanying boots made of the same material, opened
a world of woven paper clothing. This was an important part of domestic
production during the First World War, particularly in Germany where
between 1914-1919, more than 200,000 people were employed in this
industry. This presentation concentrates on the footwear that, by
necessity, was made of paper during and after both World Wars, primarily
in Europe: Germany, Austria and Finland. 2) John is an Apprentice Shoemaker, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation. His presentation discusses the fact that while the weapons and uniforms supplied by France to the fledgling United States during the American War for Independence have been well studied, little attention has been given to the shoes that were included in these contracts. Drawing on Primary sources and a unique collection of surviving originals, John explores this aspect of the struggle to provide the Continental Army with footwear and the shoes that of necessity were taken into service. |